Own This City
Tour New York: A C to Utica Ave
We hopped the A C to Utica Ave and discovered a softer side of Bed-Stuy.
By Yolanda Sangweni
Exit the subway station at Utica Avenue, and suddenly you’re in a Brooklyn you thought existed only on The Cosby Show. Tree-lined streets and century-old Beaux Arts brownstones line the predominantly African-American enclave known to brokers as Stuyvesant Heights (and to the rest of us as Bed-Stuy).
Though rent is still relatively reasonable, purchasing a house in the 12-block historic district can set you back a cool million. “This is a pocket of such extreme classiness—like, I feel weird hanging out on my stoop,” says Chris Giarmo, a redheaded dancer-graphic designer we find showing his Jersey parents around the neighborhood. “Even my landlord was like, ‘You do not leave your boxes tied up on the stoop, not on Stuyvesant Avenue.’ ”
The Giarmos are on their way to Bread Stuy (403 Lewis Ave between Decatur and MacDonough Sts; 718-771-0633, breadstuy.com), a coffeehouse and hang spot with free Wi-Fi and tempting treats like ginger scones, cupcakes and smoothies. Inside, the vibe is laid-back, as multiculti hipsters tap away at their laptops. We ask baker Samantha Thomas what she could make that’d capture the essence of the ’hood. “Marble pound cake,” she answers, smiling. “It’s a great mix of people and community.”
Back on the street, we stop chef Ayinde Howell and ask for his take on Utica; he tells us he’s excited about the area’s changing face, and recommends the Southern-style brunch at Solomon’s Porch (307 Stuyvesant Ave at Halsey St, 718-919-8001), and indie shop Brownstone Books (409 Lewis Ave between Decatur and MacDonough Sts; 718-953-7328, brownstonebooks.com). The latter stocks a hearty catalog of African-American and Caribbean books, and boasts its own book club and biweekly story times for kids.
Trekking down Lewis Avenue, a topless, middle-aged white dude sawing wood on the sidewalk catches our eye. It’s Chicco Piadina, or “Kiko” as he prefers to be called, standing outside Saraghina (453 Halsey St at Lewis Ave, no phone yet), a Neapolitan-style pizzeria he’s planning to open in the next few months. “I don’t know if it’s gonna fit this neighborhood, but we try to make something different,” he says. The decor is rustic Italian, and Kiko—also the owner of West Village Italian eatery Piadina—is building everything himself. “It’s not gonna be cheap; it’s not gonna be expensive,” he says, before leading us on a tour of the space. Outside, he greets a few passersby, then adds, “Some people think we’re just white people who come here to make business. We’re here because we live here.”
Continuing our exploration, we exchange WTF glances when we happen upon the Brooklynite Gallery (334 Malcolm X Blvd between Bainbridge and Decatur Sts; 347-405-5976, brooklynitegallery.com). The all-white interior and sleek design stand in sharp contrast to the tenement-like walk-ups next door. Outside the gallery, which specializes in street art and Pop Art, a blue digital ticker flashes the latest news and headlines. “It’s all about keeping things very current, and playing on the whole Times Square LED thing,” explains owner Rae McGrath. The gallery’s next exhibition, “Smoking Jackets for Jerry,” opens Saturday 22 and features the work of British graffiti collective Kuildoosh.
By the time we hit Tuff Gurl Tattoo Studio (255 Malcolm X Blvd between Halsey and Macon Sts, 347-413-5806), we’re totally convinced Stuyvesant Heights is one of the best under-the-radar neighborhoods in New York. Here, tattoos start at just $50, though owner Brandy S. Scott cautions newbies not to bring her any Tweety designs. She studied art and does mostly custom pieces. “It’s a safe place to come if you’re female and if you’re tough,” she laughs.
We can dig that: You don’t have to be tough to live in Do or Die Bed-Stuy these days, but you do have to have your neighbor’s back.
Though rent is still relatively reasonable, purchasing a house in the 12-block historic district can set you back a cool million. “This is a pocket of such extreme classiness—like, I feel weird hanging out on my stoop,” says Chris Giarmo, a redheaded dancer-graphic designer we find showing his Jersey parents around the neighborhood. “Even my landlord was like, ‘You do not leave your boxes tied up on the stoop, not on Stuyvesant Avenue.’ ”
The Giarmos are on their way to Bread Stuy (403 Lewis Ave between Decatur and MacDonough Sts; 718-771-0633, breadstuy.com), a coffeehouse and hang spot with free Wi-Fi and tempting treats like ginger scones, cupcakes and smoothies. Inside, the vibe is laid-back, as multiculti hipsters tap away at their laptops. We ask baker Samantha Thomas what she could make that’d capture the essence of the ’hood. “Marble pound cake,” she answers, smiling. “It’s a great mix of people and community.”
Back on the street, we stop chef Ayinde Howell and ask for his take on Utica; he tells us he’s excited about the area’s changing face, and recommends the Southern-style brunch at Solomon’s Porch (307 Stuyvesant Ave at Halsey St, 718-919-8001), and indie shop Brownstone Books (409 Lewis Ave between Decatur and MacDonough Sts; 718-953-7328, brownstonebooks.com). The latter stocks a hearty catalog of African-American and Caribbean books, and boasts its own book club and biweekly story times for kids.
Trekking down Lewis Avenue, a topless, middle-aged white dude sawing wood on the sidewalk catches our eye. It’s Chicco Piadina, or “Kiko” as he prefers to be called, standing outside Saraghina (453 Halsey St at Lewis Ave, no phone yet), a Neapolitan-style pizzeria he’s planning to open in the next few months. “I don’t know if it’s gonna fit this neighborhood, but we try to make something different,” he says. The decor is rustic Italian, and Kiko—also the owner of West Village Italian eatery Piadina—is building everything himself. “It’s not gonna be cheap; it’s not gonna be expensive,” he says, before leading us on a tour of the space. Outside, he greets a few passersby, then adds, “Some people think we’re just white people who come here to make business. We’re here because we live here.”
Continuing our exploration, we exchange WTF glances when we happen upon the Brooklynite Gallery (334 Malcolm X Blvd between Bainbridge and Decatur Sts; 347-405-5976, brooklynitegallery.com). The all-white interior and sleek design stand in sharp contrast to the tenement-like walk-ups next door. Outside the gallery, which specializes in street art and Pop Art, a blue digital ticker flashes the latest news and headlines. “It’s all about keeping things very current, and playing on the whole Times Square LED thing,” explains owner Rae McGrath. The gallery’s next exhibition, “Smoking Jackets for Jerry,” opens Saturday 22 and features the work of British graffiti collective Kuildoosh.
By the time we hit Tuff Gurl Tattoo Studio (255 Malcolm X Blvd between Halsey and Macon Sts, 347-413-5806), we’re totally convinced Stuyvesant Heights is one of the best under-the-radar neighborhoods in New York. Here, tattoos start at just $50, though owner Brandy S. Scott cautions newbies not to bring her any Tweety designs. She studied art and does mostly custom pieces. “It’s a safe place to come if you’re female and if you’re tough,” she laughs.
We can dig that: You don’t have to be tough to live in Do or Die Bed-Stuy these days, but you do have to have your neighbor’s back.
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